I am compelled to add my $.02 to this thread.

The best tool for removing the axle nut is a proper 3/4" short form socket.
 You can either uses a 46 mm socket or a cheaper 1-13/16" socket that is
only 0.0015" larger.  Since the 46 mm socket dimensions are 0.031" larger
than the nut anyway, this extra 2 thousandths is insignificant.  This socket
is competitive in price to the crude stamped steel "axle nut hammer wrench"
and is available and stocked at NAPA stores (Cat# BK 7751858) for only $14.29.

The total height of this socket is 2-5/8" so the offset is ideal to allow
for a straight pull on an cheater pipe that just clears the Vanagon fender.
 No additional support is required to keep the socket from twisting off the
nut.  When I have used the stamped steel hammer wrench and stood on the
breaker bar/cheater bar the crude wrench quickly twisted off of the nut,
resulting in rounding off the corners of the nut and deforming the gripping
surfaces of the "wrench".

Using a stamped steel "axle nut hammer wrench" and hammer also resulted in
my hitting the wheel and then a wheel stud, resulting in damage that
required replacement of the stud.  I'm glad it was only a steel wheel.  With
the proper socket, a breaker bar and a four foot 2" cheater pipe I found the
axle nut could be removed and retorqued to the proper specs with butter-like
smoothness.  A four foot cheater pipe requires only 90 lb of pull, less than
a lug nut, to apply the specified 360 ft lb of torque to tighten the nut.

I will place a picture of each wrench in the Photos section of the Spare
Vanagon List.

Ed